“It was unexpected as it always is. To meet surfing legends together in one spot without taking them there together…
It all started 3 weeks ago when I was in a trip to the Mentawai on board the Aileoita 1. The swell forecast was not looking good so I knew it would be a trip of cruising between wave magnet spots.
We spent a few days in Burger World with another 4-5 boats and all the camps and resorts of the Playgrounds area sniffing around. Then another few days in the South surfing Thunders with less people as there are no camps/resorts there (yet?). With a good increase of the swell period and a change of swell direction in the last few days we headed to Katiet.
First we hit up Lances Left, which was fun: A couple of head high waves and only 2 boats around. The next day we woke up and sailed to Lances Left again but with the tide coming in the winds turned onshore and our guide recommended we head straight to HT’s (Lances Right), 40 minutes away.
It was low tide and perfect 3-4 ft right handers were breaking on the very sharp reef with some really fun barrels. Watching it a for a bit I noticed a bunch of guys wearing Hurley head to toe getting barrel after barrel.
We gave them 1 hour before jumping in the water, as is surf-charter etiquette in the Mentawai. It wasn’t a painful wait as these guys were having so much fun surfing perfect barrels and cheering each other on in every single wave they got. It was good to see people having genuine fun without any of the aggression that can enter the surfing arena… even in paradise!
When we paddled out we realized that we were surfing with Bob Hurley, founder of “)( Hurley” and all-round legend. Their crew wasn’t bummed at all when a few of our boys paddled out and joined them; happy to share the waves. They were giving waves and cheering for our boys as if they’d known us for years, reinforcing the beauty of this surf spot.
To make that stop at Lances even better we met Lance, the man for whom the spot is named; An Australian surfer who discovered one of the most famous waves of the Mentawai 20 years ago. He was more than happy to share stories about the old times between sets. Lance was surfing Lance’s Right with his 2 sons and a video crew shooting a documentary to look out for soon.
In spite of not being blessed with big barrels, it was bliss to meet people who made a small wave Mentawai trip memorable.
Stay tuned for more stories.”