Photos: Diary of an Epic Mentawai Trip

It was the first trip of 2016 of Aileoita (aileoita.com), our partner boat. The forecast was not the best, there were a couple of pulses but not a proper solid swell. Every one thought that it would be a chest to head high wavess trip but our surf-guide and photographer was confident there he would take us to the best spot.

This’ what we had:
Day 1: Ht’s 3-4ft with a few 5-6ft sets. We were there in 3 boats + the surf camp boys. Around 3 one of the boats left and the boys of the other boat when to surf the Left and waves just turned on. We had the arrive session between our boys and a few surfers from the Camp.

Day 2: 2-3ft Lances Left by ourselves. Waves were small, chest to head high but really fun with a couple of barrels. All day by ourselves.

Day 3 and 4: We surfed a secret right for this 2 days that were supposed to be the smallest. We checked Thunders and it was 2ft so we decide to keep surfing our secret right.

Day 5: 3-4ft Thunders, we surfed all morning by ourselves and around 11 o’clock Macaroni’s resort little boat arrived there and dropped 12 surfers in the line up. We went in and let them surf, at 3pm with a big storm ahead they had to leave challenging weather conditions. Around 4:30 it glassed off again and we were out just between us.

Day 6: 4ft Thunders, a swell as supposed to pick up during the day so we surfed Thunders in the morning with another boat then we left to surf somewhere else with increasing swell. We arrived at our destination and there were 3 other boats there and no swell. We went fishing this afternoon.

Day 7: We woke up in front of this perfect left hander in the south and there were only one boat there. Waves were 3-5ft with perfect long barrels. No many people went out so there were plenty of waves to everyone. The afternoon we Surfed another left in the other side of the bay with other 3 boats.

Day 8: We started the day with a 2-3ft Roxy’s, fun and none around. Around 10 after a long surf we drove to Green Bush where we arrived with a boat leaving it. 4-5ft perfect Barrels and none out until we got there. The boys got some really nice barrels.

Day 9: Macaronis 3-4ft with a boat carrying 16 (sixteen) good surfers. This was fore sure the most crowded day of our trip. But who cares, it’s Macaronis and it was Epic.

Day 10: Macaronis 2-3ft, no other boat and 8 guests at the camp. It was a smaller day but really long and rippable waves. We surfed it all day, No more than 8 or 9 people in the water all day.

Day 11: Last day of the trip, after catching 21 fishes and surfed no stop we went to Lances Left as we knew that this boat with the 16 rippers would be in Ht’s. We had it to ourselves and at one point a boat with Russians came for a surf with us and the boys love it, there were 3 beautiful girls sharing the line up with them.

Day 12: Back in Padang getting ready to be back to real life.

You can be part of out boat trips. If you are interested contact us by e-mail: info@indosurflife.com

Sampai Jumpa

Photo and Text: IURI Borba

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