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The Mentawais, a place most of us know and love for it’s perfect waves, is currently under threat by palm oil companies. The man behind the film above, Matt Hannon, has put in an incredible amount of effort to bring us the views of the local people and what effects such a deforestation would have on the community.
Tough times, you know? Hilariously tough, but tough nonetheless. Rip currents are godsends and hellraisers depending on what you’re doing in ‘em. Rip currents can be your friend at times, other times they are not, think this guy made an enemy. If he had just paddled sideways instead of in towards the beach.
“It was unexpected as it always is. To meet surfing legends together in one spot without taking them there together…
To Bali, or not to Bali? That is the question. Australians have a love/hate relationship with this tropical paradise/dangerous dump. Me? Well, I avoided Bali after the 2002 bombings. This caused consternation among the many people I know who love the place.
Mother and calf catch a set wave at the iconic spot on Oahu’s North Shore; rare event is photographed by J.T. Gray
The Onshore Puff
Following a 6am wake up, a two hour drive, a three hundred yard beach run, just as you put on your legrope you feel the slight puff of a new onshore. You ignore it and hope it goes away. It doesn’t.
There are few places on earth which surfers have failed to infiltrate, but this isolated militaristic state is one of them. North Korea has 1,550 miles of wave rich coastline, the vast majority of which is army controlled and strictly off limits for the few foreign tourists who are granted a visa.
In a move tantamount to Michael Jordan splitting with Nike or David Beckham leaving Adidas, Kelly Slater has announced he parted ways with Quiksilver, his sponsor of 23 years.
Authorities in Bali said that they found it hard to crack down on foreigners working or opening businesses on the island on tourist visas.