Nearly every surfer has experienced the sensation: pinned to the ocean bottom, trying to swim for the surface, desperate for a few quick gasps of air to avoid what might happen if they don’t. Water swirling; surroundings dark; up is down, down becomes up. It’s a scary moment and therefore, a tough time to stay composed – even the pros say so.
Is surfing something you’ve always wanted to try, but you weren’t too sure you’d be good at it? Or maybe you were afraid you would fail? Don’t worry, we’ve got your back, future surfer!
sometimes that just isn’t in the cards. Here’s to growing from shitty circumstances.
The Everyday Surfer Problems series by Jez Browning of UniSURFity aims to make you a better surfer. And let’s face it, pretty much everyone wants to improve their surfing. That’s why you’re here in the first place. Looking for the best waves in your area, or where to go on a surf trip. Maybe you’re looking at new kit: fins, a board to go faster, get vertical, or make more sections. And yes equipment is important, good waves are important, but technique is everything.
Here is everything you should know about surfing after it rains:
Surfing, in the grand scheme of things, is not important. It is not something that should take away from anything else in your life. In fact, if it is done correctly, it should add to everything else in your life.
If you’re planning a surf trip, you’ll need to be at a half decent level of fitness if you’re going to make the most of it. Surfing is a fairly strenuous endurance activity, particularly if you’re aiming at being in the water for more than two hours a day. For week long trips or more, you’ll need to do some fitness work unless you’re already in good shape.
When surfers are young, with flexible bodies and joints that don’t yet ache, it is easy to ignore the potential for injury that our favorite pastime holds. But after a decade or two in the water —after millions of paddle repetitions and thousands of torqueing maneuvers, not to mention an untold number of wipeouts — our bodies inevitably become unbalanced and start to break down, and those knees, shoulders, backs and ankles that once felt invincible begin to betray us.
Flummoxed at the way folk like Shawn Briley manage to get pitted at places like Pipe in spite of their ‘physique’? Well, it’s lead many a tube hunter to believe that mastering under-the-lip take-offs is all about technique. There is no wave too steep, only flawed lines of attack. Here former Pipeline semi-finalist turned surf coach Didier Piter offers a couple guidelines to bear in mind next time you’re throwing yourself over the ledge!
There’s few better ways to spend a sunny afternoon than getting a group of friends together and jumping off something high and halfway scary into a cool body of water.