When surfers are young, with flexible bodies and joints that don’t yet ache, it is easy to ignore the potential for injury that our favorite pastime holds. But after a decade or two in the water —after millions of paddle repetitions and thousands of torqueing maneuvers, not to mention an untold number of wipeouts — our bodies inevitably become unbalanced and start to break down, and those knees, shoulders, backs and ankles that once felt invincible begin to betray us.
Flummoxed at the way folk like Shawn Briley manage to get pitted at places like Pipe in spite of their ‘physique’? Well, it’s lead many a tube hunter to believe that mastering under-the-lip take-offs is all about technique. There is no wave too steep, only flawed lines of attack. Here former Pipeline semi-finalist turned surf coach Didier Piter offers a couple guidelines to bear in mind next time you’re throwing yourself over the ledge!
Look, I’ll do anything to get my own waves. But sometimes that just isn’t in the cards. Here’s to growing from shitty circumstances.
Nearly every surfer has experienced the sensation: pinned to the ocean bottom, trying to swim for the surface, desperate for a few quick gasps of air to avoid what might happen if they don’t. Water swirling; surroundings dark; up is down, down becomes up. It’s a scary moment and therefore, a tough time to stay composed – even the pros say so.
There’s few better ways to spend a sunny afternoon than getting a group of friends together and jumping off something high and halfway scary into a cool body of water.
Is surfing something you’ve always wanted to try, but you weren’t too sure you’d be good at it? Or maybe you were afraid you would fail? Don’t worry, we’ve got your back, future surfer!
They dropped a SharkBanz shark detterent on a baited camera station on a shark hotspot off the North West Coast of Australia.
If you’re anything like me, the thought of going to the gym is about as appealing as being run over by an old guy on a mal. Hanging out with a bunch of sweaty males on the gains, drinking protein shakes, and lifting heavy objects just doesn’t appeal. Nor, for that matter, does the current trend of paying to go and throw tires repeatedly against a wall and hit rubber things with large hammers – also known as cross-fit.
We have sustained more lacerations to our skin courtesy of the razor sharp reef than we’d like to admit. Which got us thinking: there must be a better way to fall.
Want the keys to making it outta tunnels? Step inside for tube-riding enlightenment. We can’t all weave through six-second drainers on a regular basis — but we can still maximize barrel time wherever, whenever we surf. Here are some things to keep in mind.