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Surfing is hard. Being a snowboarder or skater, you naturally assume you’ll take to it. It’s just other boardsports, right? Oh. Hell. No. This is one of (if not, the) hardest sport you will ever learn. Nothing destroys egos more wonderfully than two hours on a foamie in the cold North Atlantic.
The Mentawais, a place most of us know and love for it’s perfect waves, is currently under threat by palm oil companies. The man behind the film above, Matt Hannon, has put in an incredible amount of effort to bring us the views of the local people and what effects such a deforestation would have on the community.
Bali isn’t exactly an unknown destination and for some, that’s a turn off. True the island is packed with tourists, but exploring the unique Balinese culture and temples, as well as the hidden beaches, is still worth your time, especially when you consider the quality and affordability of the amenities.
It’s only a matter of time before we’re pushing daisies, and you certainly don’t want go without surfing the best waves you possibly could, right? So with mortality in mind, here are five surf spots around the globe that you should hit before that big barrel in the sky.
Tough times, you know? Hilariously tough, but tough nonetheless. Rip currents are godsends and hellraisers depending on what you’re doing in ‘em. Rip currents can be your friend at times, other times they are not, think this guy made an enemy. If he had just paddled sideways instead of in towards the beach.
To Bali, or not to Bali? That is the question. Australians have a love/hate relationship with this tropical paradise/dangerous dump. Me? Well, I avoided Bali after the 2002 bombings. This caused consternation among the many people I know who love the place.
Mother and calf catch a set wave at the iconic spot on Oahu’s North Shore; rare event is photographed by J.T. Gray
The Onshore Puff
Following a 6am wake up, a two hour drive, a three hundred yard beach run, just as you put on your legrope you feel the slight puff of a new onshore. You ignore it and hope it goes away. It doesn’t.
There are few places on earth which surfers have failed to infiltrate, but this isolated militaristic state is one of them. North Korea has 1,550 miles of wave rich coastline, the vast majority of which is army controlled and strictly off limits for the few foreign tourists who are granted a visa.
Quiksilver and world-champion surfer, Kelly Slater, have announced they will be discontinuing their 23-year partnership, effective April 1, 2014. Quiksilver has reached many milestones with Slater over the years, including 11 ASP World Titles, countless World Champion Tour victories and collaborations in developing his progressive and successful Quiksilver collection.