Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.
Diogo d’Orey has made a career out of squaring himself under lead curtains to document incredible barrel riding. He gets the water angle which may not capture the sheer breadth of the wave but highlights how deep the surfers are from section to section.
Gene Mace caught the terrifying encounter on camera on March 18. In the video, Mace can be heard telling his wife that the kayaker was pushed into the water by a shark, as quoted from SF Gate.
If May means one thing in Indonesia it’s that the wet season has gone dry, and the swell floodgates have opened instead. True to form, the first big low of the season reared up recently, with just enough west in the swell to entice Marlon Gerber and Mikala Jones to strike out for the far […]
Bali police wasted no time at all in responding to a suicide bombing at a bus terminal in Indonesia’s capital, Jakarta that killed three policemen.
A young girl was dragged into the water by a sea lion at Steveston Fisherman’s Wharf in Richmond, western Canada. The sea lion can be seen latching on to the girl’s dress with its teeth before forcefully pulling her into the water.
An old footage shows narrow tricky place every surfer has to pass to get to the famous surf spot in Uluwatu Bali. It starts easy but at around 1 min in the video its getting really uncomfortable.
Join Tai Graham and friends as they endure the ferries and driving required to tackle a Desert Point swell head on. From days of hanging out sharing laughs, to patching up each other’s wounds and writing off each other’s waves, it’s a simple life in the dust bowl, and the Deserts Rats wouldn’t have things any other way.
Ever thought about the environmental effects of your custom surfboard? Watch Volcom report with Shaper Studios and a more sustainable way to create.
In this episode Mick Fanning fails at the buffet, Tyler Wright crew, secret pre-heat training techniques, a topless game of paddle ball, and a trip to the coast.