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Video: Bali, 1974

Video: Bali, 1974

Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.

Video: Going Deep at Desert Point

Video: Going Deep at Desert Point

Diogo d’Orey has made a career out of squaring himself under lead curtains to document incredible barrel riding. He gets the water angle which may not capture the sheer breadth of the wave but highlights how deep the surfers are from section to section.

Video: Sea Lion Grabs Girl and Drags Her Into Water

Video: Sea Lion Grabs Girl and Drags Her Into Water

A young girl was dragged into the water by a sea lion at Steveston Fisherman’s Wharf in Richmond, western Canada. The sea lion can be seen latching on to the girl’s dress with its teeth before forcefully pulling her into the water.

Video: Doing The Desert Point Dash

Video: Doing The Desert Point Dash

Join Tai Graham and friends as they endure the ferries and driving required to tackle a Desert Point swell head on. From days of hanging out sharing laughs, to patching up each other’s wounds and writing off each other’s waves, it’s a simple life in the dust bowl, and the Deserts Rats wouldn’t have things any other way.