Rip Curl Mick Fanning
Volcom Fiji Pro 2013
Volcom Fiji Pro 2013

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Photos: 6-8ft Secret Bali

Last Friday Padang-Padang was on with 6ft sets rolling through from the horizon. The crowd of around about 50 was the usual mix of locals, world class Pros and all the visitors who flock to Bali year in year out..

Knowing that Padang was going to be working on Saturday and after Friday’s crowded session, we decide to go somewhere where the crowd would not be as bad as Padang and we would still have the chance of good waves.


We woke up early and drove to the East Coast. On the way I received the first report saying that waves were solid, lots of closing out and no one out. Determined, I ignored the report and kept driving to the spot.

Arriving there, we could see some big sets coming through as we drove down the road to the beach; many close-outs and a few huge barrels peeling to the beach. Oddly, the line-up was empty.

I got my boards and my equipment and waked to the warung where I met 2 friends. Five minutes later a group of Pro Surfers arrived: Dean Morrison, Marti Paradisis, Matt Bromley, Wok, Coby Abberton and Marcelo Trekinho, who we’d met on our way down.

It wasn’t really good, and the paddle out through the erupting shore-break was a mission in itself but with the tide coming in it promised to get better and better. Around 9 am Dingo and Marti were getting sick barrels. Soon after all the boys got out in the water and the show really started.

8 foot sets breaking perfectly, the break offering up the best it can get. To make it even better the boys from Deus Ex-Machina arrived with their retro boards and alternative style to add even more flavour and excitement to the session.

Check out the photos and try to guess where it is.

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