Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.
Of course, in 1981, when Bali was still fairly underground, nobody could have predicted just how popular the little island in Indonesia would become.
Travel back in time and explore the exotic Island of Bali, stroll into a local market, enter a temple and pass lush rice terraces. Watch local artisans create timeless works of art.
You had to hike to Uluwatu back in those days.
Exquisite left-breaking reef wave located in Bali, Indonesia; an emerald-green tropical tube described by photographer Aaron Chang as a “rare, treasured and magical spot.” Padang is often called “the Balinese Pipeline.”.
Throwback in 1970, one of the world’s most dependable surf spots in Bali. Expansive left-breaking wave located on the southwest corner of Bali’s Bukit Peninsula; the first in a near-endless chain of perfect Indonesian reef waves discovered by traveling surfers from the early ’70s to present day.
Throwback in 1980’s, panoramic left-breaking wave located on the jungle-lined southeast tip of Java, Indonesia; one of the world’s longest and most challenging reefbreaks, and site of the original surfing camp, Grajagan as known as G-Land.
In the final episode of Jack Coleman’s Happy Beach, Ellis Ericson and Jason ‘Salsa’ Salisbury surf a variety of boards somewhere in the Indian Ocean. Directed by Jack Coleman.
Matt Chojnacki head to Canggu, Bali for the Deus Ex Machina 9ft and Single Fin event a few months ago, scoring Keramas and Balangan en route.
Legends such as Terry Fitzgerald and Mitchell Rae, pro surfers Rob Machado, Rizal Tanjung and Marlon Gerber, musician-surfers Jon Foreman, Tim Foreman, and Chad Butler from the band Switchfoot, Bali legends Made Lana from Uluwatu and Ketut Menda from Kuta and others with their families and friends from all over the world came together to honor and celebrate the roots of modern surfing at this unique surf gathering.