It is true that today’s broad surfing community possesses variable – and sometimes questionable – understanding of surfing etiquette. Add in a few individuals suffering from a sense of entitlement and a few others who simply demonstrate a lack of common courtesy or respect for their fellow enthusiasts, and we have a recipe for a potential bummer of a surf session.
Greg Long is one of the best big wave surfers in the world, but two years ago, he suffered a “non-fatal drowning” while surfing the infamous Cortes Bank. The archival footage of Long’s rescue team bringing him back to life is harrowing enough on its own, but beating death wasn’t Long’s last battle. With two years of recovery and personal struggles behind him, Long reflects on his near-death experience and getting back in the ocean to mount an inspiring comeback.
Mexico’s Puerto Escondido is nicknamed the Mexi-Pipe and for good reason. The wave throws with more intensity than an actual grenade. It has stolen the lives of many dedicated watermen. It’s a volatile, sometimes unpredictable sandbar and most big wave pros will tell you it’s more challenging than Pipe. On July 5 and 6, the swell of the year smashed right into Puerto and we were there to capture it. Here’s an edit of some of the world’s most daring men surfing Pipeline’s Latino cousin.
For the final act of the Billabong XXL Awards, five surfers lined up on stage to see who had won the most coveted award of the event. The Ride of the Year award had loomed large for the entirety of the show. Between each presentation, each surfer was depicted in a short film, self-narrating the day and the moment they caught that memorable wave that had brought them to this nomination.
In years past, there always seemed to be a wave or two that stood out above the others for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award. This year, however, all five nominees are very evenly matched. Which do you think deserves to take home top honors?:
There’s surfers. There’s big-wave surfers. And then there’s a select few on this planet like San Clemente, California’s Greg Long. Greg’s an effin’ maniac. Since devoting his life (from around 15 yrs old) to the pursuit of riding the biggest waves in the world he’s won a couple trophies in the process.
The huge swell that hit Jaws last week saw some of the world’s best big wave surfers coming together to paddle some of the biggest waves the ocean could muster. Shane Dorian, Greg Long, Mark Healey, Ian Walsh, Peter Mel, Isaac Stant and a few others paddled out and into some really big waves. These waves are nothing to mess with.