It was not a big swell prediction. Greenbush would for sure the best because I thought Macas would be too crowded for the first few days so I drove Aileoita to Greenbush.
Two weeks ago a very motley crew of surfers hopped onboard the Aileoita I in Padang, Sumatra, ready for whatever mother nature and the crew had in store for them. Informed by the latest forecasts the group agreed to heed the surf-guide’s advice and head beyond the well-documented Mentawai islands for the relatively lesser known Telos to the North, to search for waves and avoid crowds.
“It was unexpected as it always is. To meet surfing legends together in one spot without taking them there together…
It has been a long year… While for some of the local and International Schools in Bali the year has not quite finished yet, the kids were already out. Mid-term school holidays start today for local schools, so from now on expect the kids out and, as always, they’re frothing. Today, in 2ft Canggu, we could experience what will be happening for the next 3 weeks: A crowd of boys and girls dominating the line-ups of Bali.
Naughty or not the kids are ripping!!!
December has arrived! We usually have a lot of rain and Westerly winds at this time of the year, but as we’ve mentioned before this year is rather unusual. Not that we’re complaining! Over the last few days we enjoyed a mid-size swell that brought Bali fun waves, 5-6ft at some breaks, and with the light Southerly winds we’ve been able to surf all day. The coconut wireless is buzzing with stories that it’s been barreling all over the island.
“We’d been hanging at Macca’s and Green Bush for the last 4 days, and the natural footers were frothing to hit another perfect right-hander after the first 2 days we got at Rifles. Luckily we had a world class right just around the corner and that would be our next destination: Rags.
The media super exposed Indo’s last swell, there were photos on surfing websites around the world. Here in Bali, at the epicenter, a lot of stories were making the rounds: Fights, hassles, drop-ins, the usual unfortunate drama, but the most common complaint by far was the crowd. Waves pumped from West to East, with reported 10 foot sets at Nias, epic Desert Point and smoking Sumbawa. A dream start for a September session that could remind us of that epic video from the early 2000’s.
It’s been a good season – and we’re only just half way through July! In spite of the trade-winds unusually late arrival, early-breaking Padang and the WCT circus provided plenty of fun, not to mention an influx of surfing prowess to an otherwise already blessed island. We caught up with foreign and local pro’s of all ages enjoying some of the best Bali has on offer.
Like with any good circus the highlights are always in the side-show; It’s where you can see the bearded lady, the fattest twins and the headless man.
After an awesome start at Rifles in the Playground area we moved South expecting to score at arguably the most fun left-hander in the world: Macaronis.