Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.
It’s only a matter of time before we’re pushing daisies, and you certainly don’t want go without surfing the best waves you possibly could, right? So with mortality in mind, here are five surf spots around the globe that you should hit before that big barrel in the sky.
There are several well-known and rarely explored beaches to discover here, far removed from the chaos of the main tourist areas.
Mikala Jones has made a career out of surfing perfect barrels in undisclosed locations. For the past 20 years, he’s been on magazine covers and in videos shot all over the world, yet Jones has managed to protect the anonymity of his favorite waves. Today, in an era where information is easier than ever to […]
The famed big wave break of Jaws won a major victory late last week. Maui County has bought 267 acres of land for $9.5 million through the Open Space, Natural Resources and Scenic Views Preservation Fund. Saving the land on the cliffs from future development, they plan to keep it mostly as is to create the area’s first Organic Agricultural Park with gardens and public walking trails, quoted from Grindtv.com.
The surfing population is ever-increasing and some breaks are at the point where demand is far exceeding supply. We look at the most crowded waves on the planet, breaks where getting a wave on your own is not just difficult, but almost impossible.
Kepulauan Mentawai, rantai puluhan pulau di lepas pantai barat Sumatera, menawarkan 400 tempat surfing dengan beberapa ombak terbaik yang dapat ditemukan di dunia, Antara News melaporkan.
Mentawai Islands, a chain of dozens of islands and islets off the western coast of Sumatra, offers some 400 surfing spots with some of the best waves to be found anywhere in the world, Antara News reported.
Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds—albeit minuscule—of that being that fateful last ride.Here’s 5 of surfing’s deadliest surf spots:
Sharky shark sharks. The source of so much controversy these days and so misunderstood! Sparked by an unprecedented run of fatal attacks off the coast of Reunion Island and Western Australia both starting in 2011, the introduction of new shark culling policies continue to make headlines as they’re continually denounced by animal-rights activists, especially in Australia, less so in Reunion Island where local inhabitants have been more in support of action.