We’ve put together seven amazingly thoughtful tips to prevent you from going temporarily crazy while waiting for the waves to return.
Surfing has always had its fiercely local breaks. It seems localism, where local surfers intimidate visiting surfers to discourage them from surfing “their” waves, doesn’t seem to be going anywhere.
Anyone who has ever ventured down to their local surf spot will know that they are home to a colourful bunch of people. Those who are surfers might even find themselves reading about one of the following characters thinking that it all sounds very familiar. And if you haven’t ever had the sheer joy of encountering these guys we suggest that you head on down to the beach with this guide in tow. It’s a little like birdwatching or train spotting but in our opinion far more entertaining. Enjoy!
The whole precarious act of trying to balance on a board is a form of occupational therapy for the left and right hand side of their brain while also developing their sense of body and place, as this can be problematic.
We have sustained more lacerations to our skin courtesy of the razor sharp reef than we’d like to admit. Which got us thinking: there must be a better way to fall.
Old footage of Kelly Slater and Taj Burrow surfing all sorts of crazy stuff, like a christmas sled, guitar case, snowboard, table ++ you name it, they’ve prob tried surfing it. Slater gets a pretty sweet ride (with a table!) at the end there
“Some people say my humor focuses too much on stereotypes. It doesn’t. It focuses on facts.” Sarah Silverman. In an ongoing Tracks series, They look at surfing’s key stereotypes. From whole countries, to entire states, the craft we ride, hair colour, to where we stash our keys before a surf, surfing is positively shitting itself with stereotypes. To not ridicule them, well, would be fucking ridiculous.
Is surfing something you’ve always wanted to try, but you weren’t too sure you’d be good at it? Or maybe you were afraid you would fail? Don’t worry, we’ve got your back, future surfer!
Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.
Following a 6am wake up, a two hour drive, a three hundred yard beach run, just as you put on your legrope you feel the slight puff of a new onshore. You ignore it and hope it goes away. It doesn’t.