The whole precarious act of trying to balance on a board is a form of occupational therapy for the left and right hand side of their brain while also developing their sense of body and place, as this can be problematic.
We have sustained more lacerations to our skin courtesy of the razor sharp reef than we’d like to admit. Which got us thinking: there must be a better way to fall.
Old footage of Kelly Slater and Taj Burrow surfing all sorts of crazy stuff, like a christmas sled, guitar case, snowboard, table ++ you name it, they’ve prob tried surfing it. Slater gets a pretty sweet ride (with a table!) at the end there
“Some people say my humor focuses too much on stereotypes. It doesn’t. It focuses on facts.” Sarah Silverman. In an ongoing Tracks series, They look at surfing’s key stereotypes. From whole countries, to entire states, the craft we ride, hair colour, to where we stash our keys before a surf, surfing is positively shitting itself with stereotypes. To not ridicule them, well, would be fucking ridiculous.
Is surfing something you’ve always wanted to try, but you weren’t too sure you’d be good at it? Or maybe you were afraid you would fail? Don’t worry, we’ve got your back, future surfer!
Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.
Following a 6am wake up, a two hour drive, a three hundred yard beach run, just as you put on your legrope you feel the slight puff of a new onshore. You ignore it and hope it goes away. It doesn’t.
Throughout the month of May, the beauty of East Java’s Plengkung Beach in Banyuwangi is on display at the Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam, in the Tourism Ministry’s latest campaign to promote Indonesia abroad, as quoted from Jakarta Globe.
It is true that today’s broad surfing community possesses variable – and sometimes questionable – understanding of surfing etiquette. Add in a few individuals suffering from a sense of entitlement and a few others who simply demonstrate a lack of common courtesy or respect for their fellow enthusiasts, and we have a recipe for a potential bummer of a surf session.
In many spots around the world, the dreaded drop-in can end in fistfights and sometimes worse. It’s important to observe the correct etiquette while you’re out there surfing, otherwise things will just descend in to total chaos.