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Video: Bali, 1974

Video: Bali, 1974

Story of a two months surf trip there at 17. Kuta was just a small village. Few losmen for backpackers and surfers with the neighborhood of the local families. Cows were hanging under the coconut trees. No electricity, no running water, dogs everywhere. Mushrooms from cowpats end up in a small restaurant. Pot passed from hand to hand. No forecast just the expectation of a new moon when it was flat. We had to listen the sound of the swell during the night, with the morning surprise… Just few surf spots were discovered beside Kuta and the virgin beaches up to Legian. Kuta Reef was the main surfed left on a good swell. Aussies were already ripping on 6′ boards.Frenchies, we were still under the 8′ gunny hawaiian/cal influence.

When Surfing Sucks

When Surfing Sucks

Following a 6am wake up, a two hour drive, a three hundred yard beach run, just as you put on your legrope you feel the slight puff of a new onshore. You ignore it and hope it goes away. It doesn’t.

9 Ways to Have More Fun Surfing in a Crowd

9 Ways to Have More Fun Surfing in a Crowd

It is true that today’s broad surfing community possesses variable – and sometimes questionable – understanding of surfing etiquette. Add in a few individuals suffering from a sense of entitlement and a few others who simply demonstrate a lack of common courtesy or respect for their fellow enthusiasts, and we have a recipe for a potential bummer of a surf session.

Drop in, Whose Fault is it?

Drop in, Whose Fault is it?

In many spots around the world, the dreaded drop-in can end in fistfights and sometimes worse. It’s important to observe the correct etiquette while you’re out there surfing, otherwise things will just descend in to total chaos.

15 Types of Surfer You’ll Find on Beaches Around the World

15 Types of Surfer You’ll Find on Beaches Around the World

Anyone who has ever ventured down to their local surf spot will know that they are home to a colourful bunch of people. Those who are surfers might even find themselves reading about one of the following characters thinking that it all sounds very familiar. And if you haven’t ever had the sheer joy of encountering these guys we suggest that you head on down to the beach with this guide in tow. It’s a little like birdwatching or train spotting but in our opinion far more entertaining. Enjoy!

The Bucket List of Surf Spots

The Bucket List of Surf Spots

It’s only a matter of time before we’re pushing daisies, and you certainly don’t want go without surfing the best waves you possibly could, right? So with mortality in mind, here are five surf spots around the globe that you should hit before that big barrel in the sky.

Everyday Surfer Problems: Efficiency in Movement

Everyday Surfer Problems: Efficiency in Movement

The Everyday Surfer Problems series by Jez Browning of UniSURFity aims to make you a better surfer. And let’s face it, pretty much everyone wants to improve their surfing. That’s why you’re here in the first place. Looking for the best waves in your area, or where to go on a surf trip. Maybe you’re looking at new kit: fins, a board to go faster, get vertical, or make more sections. And yes equipment is important, good waves are important, but technique is everything.

5 Life Traps Surfers Should Avoid

5 Life Traps Surfers Should Avoid

Surfing, in the grand scheme of things, is not important. It is not something that should take away from anything else in your life. In fact, if it is done correctly, it should add to everything else in your life.