Surfing and the benefits of it have been studied and discussed in a research paper to determine the effects it has on both body and mind. The research was specifically designed to show how a single 30-minute bout of surfing affects males and females between 18 and 58 years of age. At the beginning of the study it was hypothesized that a half hour of surfing will increase the positive feelings of the surfers and at the same time decrease negative feelings like fatigue.
The allure of surfing is underestimated. I got into it at an early age; I didn’t consider the long-term effects. Neither did my parents. In 1995 surfing was pretty much socially acceptable. And as a kid I had a lot of free time, so it never conflicted with anything.
Do you check the surf cams multiple times a day? Blow off family occasions when a new swell fills in? Sneak glances at the waves over your honey’s shoulder during candlelit dinners at beachfront restaurants? Then you may be addicted to surfing.
From battling for the world title to surfing the world’s biggest wave, the path to success has never been easy. There’s always some bastard getting in your way, stopping you from reaching the top – nowhere more so than in surfing. So here they are, mpora.com make a list the greatest rivalries to ever grace […]
The resurgence of finless surfing started in Noosa when Jacob Stuth rode an alaia on the afternoon of March 5, 2005. He traversed across an open shoulder faster than anyone could have imagined on an Ancient Hawaiian alaia replica. Since then, the alaia has gathered a cult following around the world. The buzz you get from riding across an open wave is exhilarating, and many seasoned surfers have said that it brings back the grommet stoke of surfing all over again.
Surfing is not a sport exclusive to the young, athletic, and tanned. It’s enjoyed by men and women of all ages and is not an activity that needs to be learned as a child. As we age, it is vital to stay active and live a healthy lifestyle. In the quest for the fountain of youth, why not learn to surf? You’re never too old to enjoy riding waves.
Back in 1991, the Mentawai Islands in Sumatra were a whisper on the lips of only the most learned surf travellers. Why would anyone bother searching deeper into Indonesia when there was the most perfect left in the world (Grajagan in Java), the most perfect right (Nias just off northern Sumatra) and, between all that, the sublime treats of Bali that included Uluwatu and Padang Padang?
Bali/Indo’s dry season runs May-Sept ish and coincides with the more consistent swells, as well as the thickest crowds. Crew surf the Bukit, they go Desert’s, The Ments, Nias, etc. The wet season, when the winds blow more from the north west (than NE) coincides with Europe’s winter, might get a touch less consistent swell, but still gets it, and the ‘other’ side gets going. The other side is the east facing coast, where mainly righthanders live, like this one, and several others.
1. Surfing is addictive
There’s no doubt that surfing is addictive, but did you know it’s been scientifically proved?
Riding waves can trigger the release of a neurotransmitter called dopamine that stimulates the brain’s pleasure and reward centres.
There are more than just a few waves on Oahu’s North Shore that can scare the bejesus out of you. All the breaks on that hollowed strip of coastline unanimously break harder with the lips slamming into those shallow reef slabs with a ferocious and eerie intensity, not found in many other places on earth.