Surfing, in the grand scheme of things, is not important. It is not something that should take away from anything else in your life. In fact, if it is done correctly, it should add to everything else in your life.
If you’re planning a surf trip, you’ll need to be at a half decent level of fitness if you’re going to make the most of it. Surfing is a fairly strenuous endurance activity, particularly if you’re aiming at being in the water for more than two hours a day. For week long trips or more, you’ll need to do some fitness work unless you’re already in good shape.
It wasn’t until my early 20’s that I became conscious of what I was eating. I often think how much better my teenage years would have been if I had a better diet. I never really drew the correlation between my diet and my health, but as I got older and started traveling and competing, I became really on top of my eating.
Let’s go to the man who’s coached Mick Fanning to three world titles, Phil McNamara. There comes a time in every hot young surfer’s life when all thoughts turn to competition. Even if your spirit is 100% soul, you’ll want to try it, if only to criticise it later.
And, paddling is 50 per cent of the game. If you can’t catch waves, you can’t surf. Even if you’re surfing two-foot windblown peaks with three friends, you still have to compete to get waves. And, you thought it was all about thickness, right? It’s not; it’s how the bottom moves across the water. However…
Kelly Slater rocks a GoPro on his board during Round 4, Heat 3 of the Billabong Pipeline Masters. After winning his seventh Billabong Pipe Masters, Kelly Slater truly is the king of Pipe. How’d he surf his winning waves? He talks through some of his technique whilst in the tube: “When I need to get that forward momentum, I almost pull myself… I almost grab the air.”You’ll be excused if you come out of this thinking surfing Pipe is easy.
The bottom turn is arguably the most fundamental manoeuvre in surfing, the building block upon which a great ride is built. This video runs through the variety of bottom turns used for different situations, from vertical off the lips, to backhand roundhouse cutbacks.
Girls, want to be a surfing legend? We have 3 hot tips guaranteed to turn you into a surfing pro. Nice tips!
Before hitting the waves, take a look at our surf wax infographic to know exactly what you need to do for perfect upkeep of your board.
For many, the thought of keeping fit on a holiday is like taking a vow of abstinence during Oktoberfest or leaving your credit card at home during New York Fashion Week. Sure, getting all hot and sweaty might seem like a bit too much effort when you’re meant to be relaxing, but there are tons of benefits to working out on vacation: combating jet lag, seeing the local area, feeling energised, checking out tight bun.